REVIEW: A Visit to Citricos

 

Citricos is located on the second floor of Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort and Spa. We’ve been pretty loud enthusiasts since this location reopened with a new Mary Poppins Returns theme in July of 2021. We raved about the decor, the food, and the service during our first visit back, and a follow-up visit in 2023 also gave high marks. But the bloom appears to be fading if the recent TouringPlans Subscriber ratings are any indication. We noticed that our Liners (TP Subscribers) have Citricos ranked #52 of 92 table service locations with an 89%, “Average” rating. This was a great reason to head back.

The Setting

Citricos is still stunning. The corset-backed chairs are still immaculate, the velvet upholstery is still gorgeous, and the lighting is just as special as it ever was. If you can swing a late reservation and manage to be seated near the window of the main room, you’ll have a very lovely view of Magic Kingdom fireworks. Even if you’re at a table with an obstructed view, the chandeliers project a hint of London’s night sky. Maybe that’s just the wine, but it worked for us.

There’s a lot to unpack here when it comes to the food and service, so let’s take a look at The Good, The Stupendous, and the Makes-Me-Sad.

Appetizers

Sweet Corn Bisque – $15.00
Roasted Wild Mushrooms, Popcorn, Charred Black Truffle Oil

Nope. Don’t skip this part. This isn’t just corn soup. This had the most sweet corn flavor and a spectacular richness with the truffle oil. Who is in charge of mushroom procurement at this location? They’re obviously due for a bonus. Having rarely raved about mushrooms in the past, it’s time to say that these were possibly the most meaty, earthy, delicious fungi I have experienced in Walt Disney World. The popcorn is superfluous, but I understand theme, and it didn’t get in the way. The drizzle of oil was the perfect amount down to the milliliter.

The sadness? This dish used to be served with a bit of drama. A server would bring out your already warm plate along with a pitcher of the splendid corn goodness. The pour didn’t add to the taste, but it certainly made the dish feel special. My other cranky-pants grumble? I had a view of the serving window (it’s an open space) from my table and was able to see my bowl of soup sitting under the warming lights for a few minutes. Not a long time and certainly not long enough to affect the taste of the food, but long enough that I noticed, and it took a bit of the shine off my sparkly memories of this soup. It’s probably a mental block, but I always feel that dishes under the warmer keep the dish hot without keeping the food freshly-served hot-hot like I like. Anyone else?

Yuzu-Soy Roasted Duck Breast – $21.00
Braised Duck Dumplings, Butternut Tonkotsu, Soy Quail Egg, Sesame Aïoli

Spoiler – there is no sadness here. This perfectly cooked slice of duck will make you forget the burger you ordered at Cosmic Rays earlier in the day. The eggs were soft and salty, and the dumplings were outrageous. This was the dish everyone at the table talked about for days. You won’t regret the $21.00 you’ll spend on this one.

Seasonal Salad – $17.00
Compressed Strawberries, Chamomile-infused Goat Cheese, Frisée, Bacon Vinaigrette

No hint of disappointment here, buddy. Not when we have Len’s corporate card and this ding dang salad! If you’re coming to Citricos and you don’t happen to be eating on Len’s dime, this salad is $17.00 that you should absolutely plan to spend.

There are a few reasons this salad could cost more and we would even use our own doll hairs to buy it. 1) Frisée is also called Curly Endive, which you should internally pronounce the way Ina Garten does = awn-deeve. Bam. You’re fancy. 2) COMPRESSED STRAWBERRIES!! Better than candy because it isn’t, and you’re eating them on a salad, which makes you healthy. They’re essentially as sweet as candy, so don’t get carried away before you get to the infused goat cheese. 3) The Remy Bite. You know the part where he’s waxing on to Emile about food combinations? That’s how we feel about this salad. One forkful of each ingredient and you’ll be hooked.

Entrees

Roulade of Chicken – $41.00
Charred Creamed Corn, Orange-glazed Hushpuppies, Chardonnay-Mushroom Chicken Jus, Seasonal Vegetables 

The snap of this plate was seconds before I understood the “Average” rating for Citricos by TouringPlans Liners. While the sides for this dish have changed over the years and the servings have gotten smaller, the chicken has remained outstanding. The Orange-glazed Hushpuppies tasted like citrus cornbread drops in the best sense. Each bite tastes like Thanksgiving dinner with extra gravy and a nap on the horizon. Just delightful.

The bummer here? I saw my beautiful plate hanging out in the warming window just like the soup. It wasn’t for long, but it was a long enough time that the food was just a few degrees below ideal, but the plate was hot. I earnestly believe that if they can get the food out the second it’s plated, we will start to see happier reviews of this location.

Malbec Guava-barbecued Short Ribs – $54.00
Aged Cheddar Creamy Grits, Roasted Poblano, Curtido Slaw, and Brussels Sprouts

If you’re going to pay $54.00 for one dish, it had better be big enough to share but so good that you don’t want to. This is that dish. Grits and veg beneath a giant mound of tender short rib that you can devour with just a fork and decent napkin access. If you can figure out how to get this dish out to you as soon as it’s plated, this is a sure bet for a delicious experience. The sauce reduction makes the most remarkable sauce we’ve had in a while. No regrets except the temperature.

Desserts

Profiterole Trio – $14.00
Vanilla Custard, Dulce de Leche, Seasonal Cream

If you’ve only got the stomach or budget for one dessert, this should be the one. The seasonal option was Raspberry Citrus on the night we visited, and the small tart at the bottom of the plate was a perfect, plucky passion fruit. We loved all three profiteroles, but the Dulce de Leche was the standout. This plate is a great way to share light, bright desserts after such heavy dishes.

Citrus-Basil Cheesecake – $12.00
Basil Sponge, Caramelized Tangerine, White Chocolate Feuilletine Crunch 

My cinnamon roll palate is not nearly sophisticated enough to appreciate or understand this dessert. Not going to lie here. I ordered this one for the plot alone. I love basil in nearly all forms, but basil sponge? That’s the outlier. I loved the caramelized tangerine, but then I caught the co-mingled basil and my brain went into rejection mode.

Praline Coconut Tart – $13.00
Toasted Coconut, Vanilla Sponge, Praline Mousse

I may not comprehend the culinary intricacies of basil and citrus, but this? This I get. Toasted Coconut, Vanilla Sponge, Praline Mousse, $13.00. My immediate thought was that the citrus wouldn’t go with a sweet praline flavor, but nothing about this dish is akin to the sticky, cloying sweetness “praline” probably conjures in your mind as it did mine. Everything is delicate and light. Nothing rings artificial in any of the flavoring – especially the vanilla sponge.

Wrapping Up

With a spoonful of sugar on the basil cheesecake and the ability to render the warming lights unnecessary, we could easily see Citricos “Above Average” again soon.

Have you been to Citricos recently? What did you order and what did you think about the experience? Leave me a note to let me know your thoughts!